Thursday, 15 September 2011

Bergen

From Olden we headed for our last port of call, Bergen, Norway's second largest city, it was bathed in a warm sunshine glow as we disembarked.

We took a coach and went for a drive around the city, our first destination was the funicular train which took you high above the city. From the top you were able to see for miles around, in one direction out to sea, and in the other over the Norwegian countryside. Our time there was peaceful and relaxing but despite this being a large city in Norway it is comparatively small to those back home.

View over Bergen with our ship Arcadia in the distance
From the hill top we descended back down in the train to our waiting coach. From here we went for a drive around the city. The most famous sight we took in was the Bryggen, a Hanseatic wharf which is now a Unesco World Heritage Site. It is a symbol of Norway's trading empire of the 14th Century. The Bryggen is a brightly coloured set of wooden buildings that line the quayside, a quayside that is now home to many a luxury cruise ship but it was not to difficult to imagine the sea going vessels of yesteryear.

We continued further around the city, passing the theatre, The National Scene, which is home to a 3.5 metre statue of playwright Henrik Ibsen. From there we headed down into the modern part of town full of well known high street chains and coffee shops.

Bergen is a lush vibrant city which makes you feel welcome and offers many cultural delights. It is a city that I will visit again, as this was our last port of call and the weather was warm the ship's pool was calling and therefore Bergen did not get the attention it deserved from me.
Bryggen

We set sail from Bergen and headed home to Southampton. All in all this cruise was an eye opening experience for me. It made me realise that there is a big big world on my doorstep that is waiting to be discovered.

My cruise highlights have to be the isolation and delight of Olden, the impressive Nidaros Cathedral of Trondheim and the visit in to the Arctic Circle to the North Cape for the Midnight Sun.

Norway surpassed all my expectations and is a country I shall visit again. Next year in fact when I visit Oslo on my Baltic Cruise. Until then Happy travelling and Bon Voyage!

Saturday, 27 August 2011

Olden

Olden
As we docked along side the sleepy village of Olden, a light rain dusted the balcony. The air was crisp and all around us was calm and sleepy. That was until the locals spotted the 80,000 tonne ship parked on their doorsteps as all the houses along the dockside suddenly reivented themselves as tourist shops, selling your average Norwegian gifts, viking helemts, troll mugs etc.

Olden looked a very uninspiring place, all the excursions were based outside of the village and since we hadn't booked on one we thought we would disembark and take a short stroll around the village. To our delight, when we arrived on the quayside there was a small road train ready to ferry passengers off around the surrounding areas. We trundled off at walking pace, passed the petrol station and then a small convenience store I was at this point not feeling very optomistic. However, if ever there was a moment that taught me to be patient it was this, we travelled passed the greenest grass I had ever seen, passed some of the highest mountains I had ever witnessed, all with trickiling waterfalls tumbling down their sides.

Our first stop was beside a lake, the water was as still as a mill pond, the surface almost looking like glass. literally two minutes down the road we enjoyed the complete opposite of that, standing over the gushing white rapids of the flowing river that had just fallen down the side of the mountain, water so fresh you could drink it.

Our last stop was a delighful little wooden chuch, built in 1759. It is not in use anymore as a newer brick built church was constructed in 1934. The feel inside was one of serenity and calm. It felt like the parishoners had just left and were to return at any moment.
Olden 'Old' Church
Interior of the chuch
I don't really have much to say on Olden as there is isn't really anything there so I thought I would let my pictures do the talking. Needless to say Olden was my trip highlight, It was definately the surprise package of the cruise and is a truly inspiring place. It makes you feel a very small person in a very big world, it felt a million miles away from home but I loved the isolation, I would have been quite happy for the ship to sail away without me and for me to live the most peaceful and undisturbed existance possible.

Monday, 15 August 2011

Blog interupted

Ladies and gentlemen, I interupt my Norwegian travels to bring you the astonishing news that I, yes little old me, have been nominated for the stylish blogger award. This nomination comes from a very dear friend of mine and an excellent writer, Mrs G Lee. Gill has been ever so encouraging, supportive and an inspiration to me over the past four years that I have known her. So to be even thought of as worthy of a mention on her wonderful blog is an honour in itself.

Now then there is a catch, I have to tell you all 10 things about me that you don't already know and pray that a) you don't disown me and b) you don't contact the local constabulary. So here goes....

1. I once got hit on the back of the head with a chip at Deepdale. It put me into shock and I missed the rest of the match.

2. When I was little I was frightened of dogs, now I love them and have one of my own

3. I don't eat vegetables

4. I am developing an unhealthy obsession with cruise ships (think along the lines of a train spotter)

5. I have a duster in the shape of an elephant in my car called Ellie

6. My car is called Gabby

7. A man dressed as a bear caused me to throw up whilst on holiday ( I was 3 )

8. I once fell over running for a bus, the driver stopped the bus, got off to help me. All I could say was 'go on without me' (such a martyr)

9. I was walking down Deansgate in Manchester when a gust of wind blew a man's flat cap off his head and into my face, it got stuck on my lip gloss and I walked into a lamppost. (stop laughing)

10. I stole a milk bottle from Ryan Giggs' house.

There we have it, my deepest darkest secrets for all the world to see.

I hope you still love me!

Saturday, 13 August 2011

Trondheim

The Nidaros Cathedral (West Wall)
From Tromso we headed for Trondheim, Norway's third largest city and home to the impressive Nidaros Cathedral. Built on the site of the final resting place of St.Olav, the patron St. of Norway, the Nidaros is an excellent example of medieval architecture which is said to have taken it's inspiration from both Canterbury Cathedral and Westminster Abbey. As you turn the corner from the northern side of the building you enter a square, as you turn to look up at the western facade of the cathedral you are greeted with a truly magnificent sight, with a statue of each Saint placed in it's own niche along the western wall, the building is immense and towers over you. The intricate detail of the sculpture and the stunning rose window are both awe inspiring. Inside the cathedral is just as equally as impressive as the exterior with the most beautiful stained glass windows letting in streams of red and blue light which bathe the interior in a colourful glow.

Next door to the Nidaros Cathedral is the Arch Bishop's Palace. It is here that the Norwegian Royal Regalia is housed. Trondheim has played host to many of the Coronations of Norway's monarchs, sharing the honour with both Bergen and Oslo, however, in 1814 it was decided that Trondheim was to be the permanent venue for the Coronation but it didn't last long as nowadays no coronation actually takes place, only the benediction blessing now forms the ceremony as it is seen that the Coronation holds no legal significance, this blessing service is still held in Trondheim.
Stiftsgarden Royal Palace
Despite the glamour of the Crown Jewels and royal ceremonies, Trondheim has so much more to offer than the Nidaros Cathedral. It is a beautiful city, with impressive buildings such as the wooden Stiftsgarden Royal Palace, home to the Norwegian Royal Family when they visit. We also visited the university which specialises in Science and Technology in Norway. With new developments being built on the quayside, the old and the traditional sit very well side by side.

A trip to the Nidaros Cathedral was one of the main reasons we chose this cruise and it did not let us down. I felt a true connection with the history of Norway in Trondheim, more than I did on any other stage of this cruise. It may be a little off the beaten track with regards to the bigger cities of Bergen and Oslo but Trondheim is well worth  going that little further north to uncover this true Norwegian gem.
Panoramic view of Trondheim

Thursday, 4 August 2011

Tromso

After the tranquillity of the North Cape, our next stop, Tromso was altogether different. Situated in North-West Norway, Tromso is a bustling little town situated on a sheltered island in the Norwegian Sea. Many of Tromso's landmarks could be seen from on deck of Arcadia, including the impressive Arctic Cathedral, a magnificent white building were the walls stretch up high in to the bright blue sky as if pointing towards heaven. Our other destination on our tour for the day was the Polaria Centre, like the Arctic Cathedral, this building is built in all white and resembled a set of ice blocks that have tumbled down and stacked on top of each other, like ice block dominos.

The Polaria Centre
We disembarked and boarded our coach on the quayside and headed firstly for the Polaria Centre, this was the closest I was going to get to any polar bears or puffins on this cruise so I was quite excited. The centre is a wonderful resource for anyone who is interested in polar life. There was a short video to watch all about the wildlife and how they live and survive in the harsh winter climate. You are then guided through an exhibition complete with life size models of all the animals featured in the video, I have to say, coming face to face with a life sized polar bear was definitely an experience! We left the model animals behind and went into see some seals being fed their lunch, they had two seals at the centre that day and they both got equal attention from both the handlers and the crowd, they were a hit! The Polaria Centre was interesting if not very big. It gave a great insight into life just further north of our previous destination, but I would say it was one definitely for the kids.


The Arctic Cathedral
So, back on the coach we made our way through the town, it was by far the busiest place we had visited on the trip so far. It has a lively town centre, plenty of shops and places to eat. Our next stop was the Arctic Cathedral, perched upon a hill, I had high hopes for this building, from the pictures I had seen in the brochure it looked like a magnificent building, but one that needed a bright sunny day in order for it to gleam and sparkle. Unfortunately we didn't have the bright blue sky but surprisingly  it still impressed. Unlike any other cathedral I had visited before this was modern, crisp and sleek. The interior was very plain and simple but it did, however, boast a beautiful stained glass window and an exquisite organ. It was lovely and peaceful inside, despite its town centre location. From the outside it's pointy exterior resembled triangles all stacked one against another with their sharp tips seeming to reach high into the sky, trying to pierce the heavens above. From the top of the hill you get a great panoramic view of Tromso, with its ski jumps and ski lifts its winter life is never to far from your mind. When the snow comes, Tromso is a town that closes down for the winter and reawakens when the first sign of spring appears.

On the whole, I liked Tromso, it's not a huge place but the people were very friendly, it was very clean and is somewhere I would recommend people visit if doing a Fjords cruise. It can be so tempting at times to stay on board ship when the port of call does not look that interesting but so many wonderful treasures, like the Arctic Cathedral can be missed that way.

My next port of call, Trondheim, had a different cathedral altogether. Based on Westminster Abbey, the Nidaros Cathedral was to be one of my trip highlights.

Thursday, 21 July 2011

Honningsvaag - The North Cape - 27th August 2010

The day after departing Andalsnes was spent at sea due to the fact we were heading to the top of Norway to The North Cape, billed as the high light of the trip we were to see the Midnight Sun and the chance to stand as far north as we could in Europe without enrolling ourselves on a North Pole expedition! At one stage The North Cape was considered the most northern inhabited point of Europe.

Next stop, the North Pole
We were now deep into the Arctic Circle and much of the landscape we were going to see would be covered under a thick layer of snow and shrouded in darkness in the winter months. But we were visiting in August and the air was crisp and clear and the skies were bright blue.

We docked in the town of Honningsvaag, this is the point that many North Pole expeditions leave from and it also provides an ideal base for visiting The North Cape. We travelled by bus along an extremely varied landscape. There were no lush green trees or azure blue fjords that we had become accustomed to so far on our trip. Instead the landscape was barren, bearing the scars of the savage winters with many a reindeer roaming the flat grounds.

Interior of a traditional Sami home
This area of Norway, along with the northern parts of Sweden and Finland is home to the Sami, believed to be Europe's most northern inhabitants, they live off the land and are expert coastal fishermen, shepherds and most famously reindeer herders. We were lucky to come across a small settlement en route to The North Cape. Dressed in his traditional clothing we were invited into his authentic home and were even allowed to pet the reindeer (one of my trip highlights was all the reindeer!). I can still remember the feeling of total isolation and I can still hear the absolute peace and quiet, not a car or any other modern luxury insight. Further up the coast we arrived at The North Cape. There is a wonderful visitor centre with a truly amazing video which illustrates how the area looks and all the different wildlife that visit throughout the different seasons of the year.

After all the visitor attractions have been visited and the gift shop perused you step out behind the centre to the cliff edge. Perched on the top is a huge metal globe with a signpost underneath stating that you are at 71 degrees North. Despite the fact that there were many tourists around I felt absolutely alone, standing on the cliff edge staring out to sea knowing that there was absolutely nothing ahead of me but the deep blue ice cold Arctic Ocean is an amazing and very humbling experience. It also struck me how so very far away from home I was and it made me realise just how big the world is and what a tiny part of it we really are.
The North Cape from Arcadia
The Midnight Sun
Back on board ship we departed in the early evening, the sky was covered in thick cloud and there was rain in the air but as we sailed past the North Cape cliffs back towards civilization the clouds lifted and the sun shone down onto the metal globe making it gleam like a beacon. As the night wore on the light never faded. One half of the year sees the northern lights the other half the midnight sun, we were lucky to have the latter.



This trip was a once in a lifetime opportunity and my words and pictures cannot do it justice, it was simply breathtaking.





Sunday, 10 July 2011

Andalsnes 25th August 2010

We departed the EidFjord and turned left back in to the North Sea. Our overnight course was to follow the Norwegian coast line northwards. At some point overnight the ship entered in to the Romsdalfjordan where our destination was the working town of Andalsnes. With the sun forcing its way into the cabin, I awoke and drew back the curtains. I was greeted by the bright, crisp clear scenery of the Norwegian hills. The water resembled a deep ink coloured mill pond and the greenery was akin to a lush velvet green cloth that had been draped over the ragged edges of the hills.
We docked in the centre of the fjord and used the ship's tender to get ashore. On first impressions Andalsnes was a busy working town with a strong community spirit. We were however to leave Andalsnes and venture into the surrounding countryside, travelling deep into the valley and up high into the mountains. Our first stop was the 'Troll Wall' or the Trollveggen as it is known locally. At 5950 feet it is Europes tallest vertical cliff face, with over 3000 feet of it being a sheer vertical rock face. We made a coach stop beside part of the wall to take pictures and to gaze up at cliff edge. Local legend would have you beleive that the raggedness of the summit was made after the trolls were caught out after midnight and were inturn turned into stone. It is also said theat the clouds that shroud the summit are the fumes coming from the witches couldrens as they cook up a poisonous broth that they intend to feed to the trolls, the poor trolls! The Trollveggen Wall is in stark contrast to the lushness of the countryside we had left behind in Andalsnes just 15 minutes previously, with it's grey, ragged surface and dust laden base it is surrounded by other hills and mountians giving you a feeling of total isolation, the peace and quiet was spectacular which was commanded by the awe that it invokes to those stood at it's base.
During the winter the area is covered in a blanket of snow, the roads impassable for 4 months of the year, even then, in August traces of the winter snow still clung to the side of the rocks.
From the Trollveggen Wall we headed along the valley floor to the start of the Trollstigen, or to give it it's English name the Troll Road. We had seen pictures of the road in the excursion brochure, it contains 11 extremely tight hairpin bends, we innocently thought it would make for a pleasant and relaxing journey which would take in some lovely scenery, but unfortunately we underestimated the tightness of the bends and the height of the mountain it winds its way up. However, it was too late to turn back so off we set, sandwiched between 2 other coaches we crept ever so slowly along the first stretch of road. The first bend was not too bad, we were still at street level and we didn't really get the full impact of the bend. We carried on climbing, creeping passed trickling waterfalls, we came to the 6th bend the coach only just made it around the corner, nearly scraping its side along the rocks but we made it. Onwards and upwards we went, all the time getting breath-taking views down into the valley and along to the fjord at the bottom. It was only when we got to bend 10 that things got a little frightening; another coach was heading in the other direction, as we were on the outside the driver had to manoeuvre the coach as close to the cliffs edge as was deemed safe enough to. As I looked down I could see little rocks crumbling away from under the tires. Thankfully we came out of it unscathed and we stopped at the biggest waterfall for a breather, more for the driver than for us! Much to the drivers credit, we cleared the road and climbed closer to the summit of the mountain where there is a viewing platform offering astonishing views back down to the fjord where we could see the sun glistening of the hull of Arcadia. It was obviously still beautiful sunshine in the town but up there it was grey, cold and damp. We were offered coffee and a sample of traditional Norwegian food to help us overcome our eventful journey and to calm the more nervous members of the group down. After leaving the visitor centre our driver said he wanted to take us higher to the summit of the mountain. We drove for another 10 minutes to the flat top of the mountain. Perched along the roadside and placed along the ground were peculiar stone monuments that passing tourists added to with each trip. However the locals would like you to believe the trolls were building towers to outfox the passing tourists.
We made our descent back down the Trollstigen and back along the valley road towards Andalsnes where Arcadia sat peacefully on the water waiting for us. This trip was the start of my love affair with Norway. The isolation, the quietness, the rugged scenerey and the overally beauty of the country had captured my heart. I eargly awaited the our next stop of Honningsvaag which was to include the trip highlight of the North Cape and the Midnight Sun.

Wednesday, 22 June 2011

Eidfjord 24th August 2010.


Our first day aboard Arcadia was spent at sea; a rather rough crossing was ahead of us as we bounced up and down in the North Sea and headed for Norway.

Eidfjord
  I awoke the second morning and was surprised not to be rocking from side to side, I rather tentatively headed for the blackout curtains that lead to the balcony, I was half expecting to still be at sea but I was greeted by the most spectacular view I had ever seen. Right in front of me was the side of a huge mountain which had a tiny trickle of a waterfall tumbling down its craggy side. The air was fresh, the sky bright blue and all around was peaceful and calm.
We continued deeper into the fjord, nestled along the water’s edge is the small town of Eidfjord, it is a delightful place hosting about three shops, one restaurant and huge hotel, and on this particular day an enormous cruise ship. Arcadia dwarfed the whole town; no matter where you were you could see her freshly painted bright white stern and signature yellow funnel.
We disembarked the ship and took a leisurely stroll around Eidfjord spending our time looking around the gift shop which was selling all sorts of Norwegian goods ranging from Viking helmets to luxurious fleecy woolly jackets which were lovingly adorned with reindeer and snowflakes.
We were booked on to a pleasure boat call the Lady Anne, who was going to talk us further on down the fjord to the town of Ulvik. When boarding time came so did the cold icy rain, but it added to the already atmospheric surroundings. As we sailed away from Eidfjord the mountain tops became shrouded in clouds and the white lines of the waterfalls became hazy behind the fine rain mist. Our little boat chugged gently up the fjord past the majestic mountains making us feel like a tiny dot on  the vast waters of the fjord. The quietness and isolation of our surroundings was mesmerising, I felt like I could have been anywhere in the world totally cut off from civilisation, if it had not been for the chattering of my fellow sailors I could have been sailing along upon my own private cloud, aimlessly drifting amongst the low lying cloud gently brushing the sides of the mountains.
Once we had reached Ulvik, with its bright white buildings and lush green hillsides, the Lady Anne turned around and retraced her tracks back to Eidfjord. With Arcadia coming into view the closer we got the more the town slowly appeared behind her and it brought me back to civilisation.
My first taste of Norway left me wanting more, as Arcadia set sailed back towards the sea I watched the white buildings of Eidfjord slowly disappear behind the mountains to be hidden from view awaiting her next cruise ship visitors.
Arcadia docked in Eidfjord

Friday, 3 June 2011

The Inn at Whitewell 2nd June 2011

Situated on Her Majesty's Duchy of Lancaster estate, the Inn at Whitewell nestles in the beautiful Trough of Bowland and boasts stunning views across the Lancashire countryside.

Built in the 1300's as a manor house for the keeper of the royal forests it has managed to retain a warm family friendly feel. In the 1700's it became an inn for those travelling to and from Lancaster, the travellers may be few and far between but it does host many visitors seeking out it's renowed historical charm. It can be described as quirky most definitely, over the top it most certainly is not.


The River Hodder

The main entrance hall boasts a huge log fire, that in winter would make the ideal companion for any frosty walker looking for some hearty fayre. With stone slab flooring, old wooden furniture and low lying beams it's history encompasses every inch of the building which you can feel as you wander from one room to another. The outside of the building is just as breath taking as it's interior, as you meander along the winding and very steep roads it almost appears as if out of nowhere, set back from road slightly it has it's very own medieval church. At the rear of the building you are greeted with sublime views across the hills of Lancashire, with lush rolling green hills that are dotted with ewes and their lambs. The well stocked River Hodder meanders through the grounds and you are even invited, or challenged, to take a trip across the river by using the stepping stones, but be careful not to slip!

I had the honour to visit the Inn on a beautiful sunny evening to watch a performance of Shakespeare's Much Ado About Nothing. The play was performed in the courtyard by a local amateur group of actors who succeeded in putting on a witty and enjoyable performance. It was not without it's issues, props getting caught on costumes, actresses nearly slipping over and a few fluffed lines. But despite this it was a well received production by the packed out marquee.

It's easy to see why people travel from all corners of the north-west to visit the Inn at Whitewell, with a wonderful atmosphere, excellent food and breath taking views, it is the ideal hideaway for anyone wanting escape the fast pace of everyday life.

Wednesday, 1 June 2011

And Rome has it!!

Those of you who know me will know that I unable to make a decision to save my life, seriously I can't even decide what to have for breakfast in a morning. In view of this and in consideration of my endless dithering I thought it would be best to let you guys decide the destination of my next cruise. You voted in your droves, well 11 of you did,  and I wholeheartedly thank each and everyone of you for doing so, and you have decided that I am to go to Rome. (oh the pain of it!)

Now, I am a lass who is true to her word and so in May 2012 I shall be setting sail from Southampton and embarking on a voyage that takes in the sights of Gibraltar, Barcelona, Monte Carlo, Ajaccio, Florence (bonus!!) and Rome.

To describe my excitement as excited is an understatement. I simply cannot wait to disembark and travel through the rolling Italian countryside and head for the Eternal City. It will be such a privilege to see the Colosseum, the Trevi Fountain and the Vatican City. I am not a particularly religious person but as a Catholic to visit St Peter's will be a true honour.  After my recent visit to Santiago I know it will be a humbling experience.

The other ports of call are of particular interest to me as well. I am an avid fan of Italian and French history so to be able to pay homage to the Medici's in Florence and Napoleon in Ajaccio is an opportunity I cannot pass up. I have read so much about their lives that to be able to visit their places of origin and walk in their footsteps will be an absolute thrill.

Now all I need to decide is what to pack, all I can say is that is a bloody good job I have a year in which to plan it and I can guarantee that I will be changing my mind right up until to moment of departure!

Sunday, 29 May 2011

The Journey so far......

I left college in the summer of 2001 and while I was wavig many of my friends off to university I chose to begin my working life. I had had part time shop jobs at the weekends for a few spends but I had decided I was now ready to enter the grown up world of working full time, and in an office to boot.

So off I trot for my interview, my first ever interview I hasten to add, and I land the job. I successfully passed the interview, I flashed my beaming smile at the the interviewer, which by default produce my 'cute' dimples ( I know some of you are fans) so he either felt nervous and wanted me out of the door pronto or he did indeed think I was the most suitable candidate for the roll. I am going to opt for the last statement simply because I am still in said job after nearly 10 years.

So there I am plodding on with my life not really going anywhere, career wise not literally obviously, and then in 2006 something happened to change my life forever. I met the most amazing group ladies who inspired me, encouraged me and just well gave me the boot up the backside I needed to get a grip of my life and get it going again, I mean I was 24 for goodness sake and I felt my life was over when in fact it was just about to begin.

Through their influence I started to read books and plays that I would never have dreamed of picking up and I was going to watch plays in London, plays! My theatre experiences up to that point had included the Christmas panto at Preston Guild Hall and the odd performance of Les Mis. My eyes were well and truly opened to the cultural delights that life had to offer me.

I decided enough was enough so I enrolled on a Literature degree with the Open University not really knowing what career path I wanted to go down but just knowing I couldn't stay in a boring office job all my life. Whilst it is a safe and comfortable job that is well within my comfort zone I know I must push myself on to greater things. I hate to say it, and if you worked where I did you would understand it when I say my talents are wasted there. I am not trying to be big-headed in saying that but there are occasions that I have to wonder how some of my colleagues function day to day.

So as I write this blog post I have just put aside my revision to complete year 3 with a sense of self satisfaction that I have practically self taught myself all about poetry, prose and plays from the Enlightenment to Romanticism. I can now hold my own in any conversation about the romantic poets, about the French Revolution and even about the way a play is staged. It has most definitely not been easy, there have been times when I just wanted to quit, to throw the towel in and skulk back to my desk for the next 10-20 years of my life. But I haven't been allowed to do that simply because the very special ladies mentioned above, and you know who you are, have encouraged me, urged me on & given me advice and support when I've needed it the most.

There have been many occasions when a topic being discussed goes so far over my head it's in orbit, (I just flash my dimples and pretend I understand), but I am gaining more confidence to join in said discussions and I love that bond we have. I thank you from the bottom of my heart for keeping me going and keeping me sane (I don't think that can apply to all of you though!) and I am sorry to say that you have another 3 modules to get me through!!

Friday, 27 May 2011

Warwick Castle - 22nd May 2011

Warwick Castle can be described as a quintessential English castle. It has battlements and ramparts that succeed in transferring the visitor back to 14th century and the times of knights in shining armour. On the approach to the main castle gate you are met with huge stone walls that loom large over you. The mote has now been drained but it is easy to imagine the difficulties  any would be invader faced when attempting a raid on the castle.

In its long history however the castle has fallen, many times, and has changed hands on numerous occasions. Its most famous occupant was Richard Neville otherwise known as The Kingmaker.Neville was made the Earl of Warwick  on 2nd March 1450 by King Henry VI. The Earl was a Yorkist and after the fall of Henry, when Edward IV became king, Neville rose to a position of great wealth and importance. Over time as Warwick's influence waned he joined forces with the Edward's brother, the Duke of Clarence, during which time King Edward was captured and briefly imprisoned at Warwick Castle.

Eventually the Earl of Warwick fled England and laid his allegiance with Margaret of Anjou, King Henry VI's wife. They set sail for England and successfully restored the imprisoned Henry back on to the English throne. It was not to last however as Edward managed to raise a Yorkist army that would ultimately defeat Warwick's men at the Battle of Barnet. Warwick himself was captured, stripped naked and killed. His death was a sad loss to many but was welcomed joyfully by many more.

As you walk around the castle the atmosphere is almost tangible. Visitors have the opportunity to climb the towers and battlements but be warned with 523 steps it is not an easy task. The tight  spiral staircases of Guy's Tower and Ceaser's Tower are extremely arduous but well worth the trek, watch out for the sword marks in the walls. As you descend the towers your hand automatically reaches for the wall to help balance you and it strikes you that it has eroded away to almost nothing. Hands have grazed the very same point as yours for over 500 years, you are literally touching history.

There is so much to discover at Warwick Castle that in order to do it justice you must devote the whole day to exploring the many towers, dungeons, gardens and state rooms. The state rooms are not massive but have a few gems hidden within them. Mainly Queen Anne's state bed, it was sent from Windsor prior to her visit in 1704, only for her to never make the trip. The bed, a leather trunk and the tapestries remain thanks to King George III who made a gift of them to the then Earl of Warwick in 1773. 

I would urge everyone to make the visit to Warwick Castle, it is expensive but there is so much to see and do both for adults and children that I guarantee people of all ages will enjoy it.

Tuesday, 24 May 2011

Brest - Quimper 7th April 2011

We made the short over night sail from Bilbao to Brest, crossing the Bay of Biscay and dropping anchor very early the following morning.

With not much to do in the Breton port of Brest we made the 1 hour journey to Quimper, a small medieval town which is dominated by its huge cathedral.
Place de Buerre

In the first instance Quimper reminded me of Amsterdam, with little bridges crossing the small river that runs through the town centre, however, as we walked further into the town it soon took on the guise of a Tudor town not to dissimilar to Stratford upon Avon. With its over hanging timber framed buildings and its winding cobbled streets, Quimper is quintessentially French. I could imagine it the time of the revolution, with the Sans Culottes in the streets bellowing their revolutionary cries.

As we headed up one of the main streets we came upon the Saint Corentin Cathedral. A truly wonderful and impressive building. The interior is very light, with pinky brick work on the ceiling and whitewashed walls, it also boasts some of the most amazing stained glass windows that could rival any great Cathedral. We had a walk around this very serene church and just happened to notice something quite peculiar. As we sat at the rear of the church looking down the aisle towards the high alter we noticed the top of the aisle bent towards left. It was purposely built like this to depict Christ's head fallen to one side whilst on the cross, I hope this comes across in the picture below, it was quite disorientating!

The aisle of the St Corentin Cathedral.

Once we emerged back outside in to the warm French air we walked across the town square, flanked by its Hotel de Ville, with its billowing tricolour flags, and an impressive looking art gallery, which unfortunately we did not have time to stop at, but is definitely a reason to return. We strolled up cobbled streets to the 'crepe quarter'. A delightful network of streets and squares full of creperies. One thing that struck me was how quiet and peaceful the town was, despite it being a Friday you could easily wander up and down without to much hustle and bustle.

Lunch was to be had sat out by the river, eating pain au chocolat and crusty baguettes. It was just wonderful.









Full of quirky shops, unique boutiques and wonderfully French bakeries Quimper is a hidden little gem tucked away in north-west Brittany that should most definitely be on any tourists itinerary, it was the pleasant surprise of my trip.

Once we were back on board ship, we set sail out of the Bay of Biscay and made the right turn home for Southampton.

Saturday, 21 May 2011

My green and pleasant land

I am taking a little diversion from my European travels, as it struck me that maybe I should talk about my feelings for my own land before I start to praise foreign shores to much.

Anytime I travel through the English countryside, whether it be on a train or in a car I can't help but gaze out over the green and pleasant land and think what a beautiful and luscious land I inhabit. From the rolling green hills of the Yorkshire Dales to the hard rugged landscape of the Peak District I often find myself letting my mind drift to those who have been before me and in whose footsteps I follow. From the farmers who used to work the lands to the soldiers who marched on foot from one battle to another in The Wars of the Roses, I can't help but think, what did they see? What did they think of the aesthetics of their homeland.

In August 2010 I was fortunate enough to visit the Norwegian Fjords, with its majestic hills shrouded in low lying clouds and its dark stone mountains with the mere hint of a waterfall trickling and tumbling over the edge. If you want atmosphere and scenery then this is the place to visit. Or is it? Can the same not be said of the Peak District? Are the lakes of The Lake District any less beautiful or serene? Are the hills of the Yorkshire Dales not as velvety green? Well the simple answer is Yes. England is just as beautiful, just has breathtaking and just as sublime as anywhere on Earth and I am proud to call it home.


I will talk more of home over time but now back to the cruise and on to Brittany.

Friday, 20 May 2011

Bilbao - 6th April 2011

Azura
We set sail from the port of Lisbon at 4pm on the 4th and sailed the whole of the following day finally arriving in Bilbao on the 6th April. We had no excursions booked and assumed we could get off and have a wander around the town, like you could in most ports, however we docked some 6 miles from the centre of Bilbao, add to that the unexpected 30 degree heat and the armed police that kept an eye on us, we decided to spend the day on ship.

I did say that this wasn't going to be about the ship but I do get asked an awful lot of questions, how big was it, what was your cabin like, did you attend the formal nights? So I thought I would answer some of these questions.

Our ship was Azura and she is massive! We have previously travelled on a mid-sized ship and thought that was big, but little could have prepared us for the enormity of Azura. As our coach pulled onto the dockside at Southampton there was a gasp, everything else was dwarfed in comparison, in fact every port she docked she dwarfed her surroundings. After the incredibly easy check-in we arrived at our deluxe balcony state room to find champagne and chocolates waiting for us. I cracked open the bottle and stepped out onto the balcony to listen to the brass band playing on the quayside.

The facilities that a ship like this has to offer are pretty spectacular. You can choose from at least 6 restaurants, an alfresco spa, open air cinema, numerous bars and a shopping arcade to name but a few. As for the pools, there are 4 with 6 spa pools, there is a sports court, an English pub and plenty to keep the youngsters entertained including the sail away party.

We had 2 formal nights where we donned our finest frocks and our most glittering jewels, we were greeted by the Captain and had our formal pictures taken, we dined in restaurants were the food would not be out of place in top London eateries and we sipped cocktails at sunset whilst gazing out onto the sea behind us.

I have said more than I wanted to and I apologise that I can't give you my views on Bilbao, but I hope you get a sense of how wonderful cruising can be. The destinations are excellent and the ships are unbelievable.

Tuesday, 17 May 2011

Lisbon - 4th April 2011

We set sail from Vigo on the Sunday evening and sailed over night down the coast of Portugal heading for its capital Lisbon.

On the Monday morning I awoke and stepped onto my balcony to be greeted by the rising sunlight bathing the Discoveries Monument in a warm orange glow. As we sailed down the Tagus River past the Belem Tower I witnessed a skyline dotted with many an impressive building including the brilliant white National Pantheon perched on the hillside. It was a warm spring morning and I stood happily snapping away from the balcony astounded by the beauty of this vibrant and cultural city.

Once we disembarked the ship we picked up our tour bus that was going to drive us around the city on a panoramic tour which would take in all the impressive sights, and I must say Lisbon has many majestic buildings, squares and green spaces to be seen.

Our first stop was the beautiful Jeronimos Monastery, built by Manuel I after gaining approval from the Pope, work started in 1501/2 and was later granted to the monks of the order of St Jeronimo. I had previously been told about the brilliance of the building but it exceeded my expectations tenfold. Against the back drop of the bright Portuguese sunshine the brickwork is a brilliant white and to me resembles chalk. I felt like I could have reached out, rubbed the surface and have a chalky residue left on my palm. Despite it's rather fragile look it was one of the few buildings to survive the devastating earthquake of 1755 that destroyed most of Lisbon.

Jeronimos Monastery
After a copious amount of photographs we boarded the bus and headed for the area of Belem, I was very much looking forward to seeing the Belem Tower and the Discoveries Monument, both of which I had had a taster of from the ship. Construction of the Belem Tower began in 1515 and was commissioned once again by Manuel I, its functionality was to form part of Lisbon's maritime defence however over its 500 year history it has served as a telegraphic post and even a prison. It is a very ornate monument which features images of ropes encompassing the perimeter it is adorned by Moorish watchtowers, between each tower is the emblem of a shield. Again it felt like I could crumble the stonework in my hands and reduce it to powder. Just along from the Belem Tower is the Discoveries Monument. Built to resemble the bow of a ship in 1960, it is a relatively new addition to the Lisbon skyline and yet looks like it could have been built at the same time as its neighbour. We didn't stop here so unfortunately I am unable to give to much of an insight into it's history but needless to say it looked just as impressive as it counterparts.
Belem Tower

From the district of Belem we headed for the heart of the city centre passing under the very impressive Aqueduct of the Free Waters. This is a mammoth structure that was built in 1738 to bring fresh water to the fountains of Lisbon along its 15 km channel. I cannot describe the sheer size of this structure, it really caught me by surprise simply because it was so unexpected, as we drove under it a deep shadow was cast over the coach and everyone sat in awe of this sublime feat of engineering.

Aqueduct of the Free Waters
Other highlights include the San Jorge castle which we saw perched on top of the hill overlooking the city and the 25 de abril Bridge, a carbon copy of the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. There are many bustling squares, numerous statues, churches and government buildings that all deserve to be visited and looked at unfortunately we just didn't have the time.

I cannot describe the utter pleasure that visiting Lisbon gave me, I was shocked at how rich the culture was, I could quite happily have spent days there visiting every nook and cranny I could. Lisbon is a city I will most definitely visit again, it deserves to be treated with the same respect one would treat London or Paris. It's a stunner!

Sunday, 15 May 2011

Vigo - Santiago de Compostela

Vigo 3rd April 2011

Obradoiro facade

Nestled on the northwest coast of Spain, Vigo is a very pleasant town full of amenities that any flourishing town needs. The only problem we encountered was that we docked on a Sunday, never visit Vigo on a Sunday, it's closed, literally. Luckily for us we had booked an excursion to the Galician capital of Santiago de Compostela with its medieval cathedral dominating its rugged skyline.

SDC is a beautiful medieval town which is dominated by the very imposing cathedral. It was in the 9th century that remains were discovered and were believed to be those of the Apostle James.  The cathedral is located on one of SDC's many squares, directly opposite the 16th century Palace of Archbishop Bartolome Rajoy and flanked on one side by a luxury hotel, which was built to house the thousands of pilgrims that visited in the 16th century.


If you were to stand in front of the Obradoiro facade you would be be greeted by the enormous double staircase which leads you up to the main doors of the cathedral. As you enter the doors you are greeted by quite a dark interior. On first impressions I was disappointed, however as I gazed down the nave I was greeted by a sumptous golden light which is the high alter. It shines like a beacon that is guiding the pilgrims to the shrine of St James. Situated behind the alter is the ornate statue of St James himself. It can be accessed via a very narrow stone staircase. We qued for only about 10 minutes, when I reached the statue the people in front of me were kissing and embracing the statue. I felt slightly uneasy with the open outpouring of faith but I had to react as you file pass the statue rather quickly so I kissed the cloak of the statue and said a little prayer, I felt quite overwhelmed that I had taken part in a ritual that many people before me had participated in, many of which had followed one of the parts of the pilgrimage route known as The Way of St James. Down another tight staircase is the casket which it is said hold the mortal remains of St James, again you pass in single file whilst taking a glimpse at the spectacular silver urn.

In the main body of the church suspended from the ceiling by eight supporting cords is the enormous incense burner that has the capability to swing out over the congregation so far down the nave that it nearly reaches the opposite end. This had just been swung just as we entered so unfortunately I cannot tell what that would have been like to experience that ritual.

Incense Burner & High Alter
Many of the visitors took the opportunity to use the wooden confessional boxes that lined one side of the wall. We lit 3 candles in a side chapel and exited by the same huge wooden doors that we entered an hour earlier.

As we entered back into the daylight and the warm Spanish air I felt I had witnessed one of Europe's gems and had the privilege to witness peoples most intimate moments with God.

It would be very unfair of me to base this entire post on the cathedral.With its haphazard passages, steps leading to split level streets SDC has a feeling all of its own and has many other sights waiting to be discovered by any intrepid traveller. We took a delightful road train ride around the city which took in the many parks and cafe lined squares that this town has to offer. As we weaved our way through the cobbled streets, turning the tight bends and climbing the steep hills I got the sense of a very close knit community that was set apart from the hustle and bustle of the cathedral's many visitors in the main square and the streets that surround it.

Would I go back to Santiago de Compostela? No probably not. That's not because I didn't like it, it is simply because I have seen it and experienced it and I see it as a once in a lifetime experience to visit a place as sacred as that. Would I visit Vigo? Yes, just not on a Sunday!

Saturday, 14 May 2011

My travels in Europe

After much deliberation I have finally decided to take the plunge and attempt to produce a blog based on a recent trip I undertook to Europe in April 2011. The trip was done via cruise ship and took in ports in Spain, France and Portugal. However, this is not going to be about the ship, which incidentally was Azura, the jewel in P&O's crown, or about what we did on board, what we ate (the food was spectacular though!) etc. My posts are going to be about the places I visited, what I saw, what I heard and how I felt at the time.

Our itinerary included, from the port of Vigo in northwest Spain, the cathedral in Santiago de Compestela, which is said to be the final resting place of St James, this was followed the next day by a visit to the sun drenched capital of Portugal, Lisbon. After a day at sea our next port of call was Bilbao, but be warned we did not disembark that day so you might be lucky and get some musings about the ship and the interesting police presence in dock. Finally en route back home we visited the delightful medieval town of Quimper in Brittany, which was reached from the port of Brest.

I hope you enjoy my recollection of the journey and please excuse my feeble attempts to portray them in the way that I do. I am not a writer (yet!) but I hope that over time I can establish a writing style to call my own. Our first port of call is Vigo. Enjoy!!